Where to Go in Vermont 2021
July 2021 — Charlotte, Vermont
July 2021 — Charlotte, Vermont
In this new normal, Covid rages yet you feel safe if you have the mRNA vaccine, you’re like an ancient Hebrew strolling through parted waters that hoard their destruction capacity for Pharaoh’s cavalry. You may get wet but you will not drown.
In the middle of July 2021, and at the dark sky start of the dark Jewish month of Av 5781, I took off with Emily from NYC for two weeks of R&R, as my Vietnam-vet dad calls it. We were house-sitting for a friend in Vermont while he and his family went to Cape Cod. It was a game of musical chairs with Vermont and Massachusetts the winners and Brooklyn seatless.
My friends — a family of four — had moved from New York to Vermont last year in the early summer months of Covid, when we were all unvaccinated and kicking to keep our chins above water. By the time they moved north, I had left my Manhattan rental apartment and was living near a farm in Massachusetts with dwindling housing options. On their invitation, I joined them: a dad, mom and two kids. I was their family-friend uncle. They were my safe harbor.
I explored the region in my car when work was slow. I discovered Vermont was a reprieve and gift. It’s elevated, transcendental beauty creates a calm. It settles and soothes while somehow also motivating and inspiring. I don’t get it, but it’s not the getting that matters when you’re eating wild raspberries in a mountain meadow.
There are verdant hills and glimmering lakes and mountain ranges and pastures and swimming holes full of children’s shouts. People are kindly and talkative when not masked up.
A summer stupor settles over Vermont each season, the sunshine and warmth creates a cocktail mix of amiability and solidarity. By enjoying all this beauty together, we become altogether beautiful.
Emily hadn’t been to Vermont, at least not like this or for this long, she’s been working in her apartment for all of Covid, so it was my job as manual-transmission caretaker of the Sapphire Dragon (she later learned the bipedal clutch/gas ratios for the car) to drift her in and out of valleys and dales and woodlands and mountain passes and coves as I retraced my steps from a year before, but this time with the sheltering family gone and in their stead, a woman with me in the car, living with me in our room, spending each minute together for two weeks and a day. The familial loneliness of last year, where I hovered on the periphery of a welcoming family, had inverted to an intense and leisurely tete-a-tete with a companion.
We enjoyed all this beauty together as we — or at least she — was altogether beautiful.
I’d like to share what we’ve learned about the Burlington area.
Need to Know
To set the stage, imagine you’re visiting a rural home south of Burlington, but it doesn’t really matter. Anywhere in Vermont is the right place to be.
Better restaurants are only open Wednesday or Thursday to Sunday. Check or call. Reservations are almost always a must.
If you like shopping for local meat or milk, throw a few insulated tote bags or a cooler in your trunk. Farm stands sell more than you’d expect.
I like to keep it rural: this means enjoying driving in lazy circles to explore small towns and nature for hikes, swimming holes, brew pubs, farm stands, Lake Champlain beaches and views, lots and lots of views.
From Charlotte, I only go north for groceries but I am a fan of Burlington’s South End and downtown Winooski for their restaurants. Oakledge Park sunset on the rocks can’t be beat.
I avoid Burlington’s touristy, unredeeming Church Street. Outdoor Gear Exchange and the nearby LL Bean are excellent, otherwise, avoid.
Speaking of gear, I pack light for Vermont. (And for everywhere. I’m a minimalist except when it comes to words, sorry for you dear reader.)
I bring outdoor clothes that can get dirty. One pair of shorts, one pair of swim trunks, jeans; hiking boots, Teva sandals (for water) and sneakers, wool and cotton socks; a baseball hat; layers against cold, rain and mosquitoes: a hoodie, a long-sleeved work shirt, a rain shell, a handkerchief to cover my neck from bug bites but mostly to look like a French auteur in the woods.
Charlotte & environs
Dining:
Philo Ridge is a fancy farm-to-table restaurant. Superb views and farm fresh food. Expensive and a little dressy if you care. We had a mixed meal there considering the expense: memorable entrees and wine, bland appetizers and desserts. Regardless, will go back.
Backyard at Charlotte Crossing a more basic, new pub on Route 7.
Vermont Cookie Love — high quality creemee/hard ice cream/cookie stand that uses local dairies for surprisingly delicious treats. Maple Creemee is a must, it’s like a silky gelato with a subtle maple flavor.
Folino’s — go for high quality wood-fired pizza, you can eat here or take away. Next door is the Fiddlehead brewery. You can’t imbibe there, but it’s cheaper than a store.
Starry Night — reportedly a very good restaurant at a high price point. Reservations seem necessary. Never been but it’s on the list.
East Charlotte Snack Bar — an old-school, no frills creemee stand with burgers. Outdoor seating only. Good for kids and has excellent views.
Activities:
Charlotte Beach — First and foremost, immediately put on swim trunks (no one calls them that anymore) and go to Charlotte Beach, a five-minute drive from Charlotte Village.
The views are remarkable. There are picnic tables, a new jungle gym (I’m sure that’s an outdated term too) tennis courts, a field and a baseball diamond.
A teenage guard restricts access to the parking lot like everywhere else coastal in the East Coast, it’s unfortunate since waterfront should be accessible to everyone no matter where you’re from or how much money you have. It’s nature. It’s free. The token revenues the town collects could be gathered otherwise, but it is what it is. You can’t even visit Shelburne Beach unless you prove you live in Shelburne, so be thankful for Charlotte’s easier access.
The beach is very rocky so ankle-strap sandals or water shoes are a must. Many people make the day of it. I find myself taking a dip, skipping stones and catching sunsets. The beach is free after 8pm.
Shelburne Farms — spend an afternoon walking through the massive Olmsted park with a great beach and historic buildings. Imagine rolling hills with a small farm and livestock. There’s a market at the entry for lunch on picnic tables or to go. Really delicious prepared foods. Don’t miss this. Very kid friendly (cf. livestock) and accessible, truly fun for all ages.
Meach Cove Farms — another beautiful walk to the lake, a lovely way to spend an hour or two. It’s like a smaller-sized Shelburne Farms.
Mt Philo — a lovely family-friendly hike up a local hill but challenging enough for adults. There’s a parking charge. With another couple we hiked all the trails for around 2 fun hours, it was great, but you can do it in less to catch western views over the lake.
Camel’s Hump — this is an all-day hike with incredible views. We took the Forest City/Long Trail/Burrow’s loop, over 5 hours all in. It’s well trafficked and safe, use hiking poles and bring lots of water. It’s strenuous. We packed a decadent lunch with cold drinks for the 4,065 foot summit. There were a few small kids who managed the climb, but it’s mostly adults.
Charlotte Ferry — take the ferry to Essex, NY for a meal by the water and to explore the area. It’s a fast and cheap way to enjoy Lake Champlain.
Vergennes
Beautiful country town with a historic main street, with somewhat “twee” restaurants but not tacky or touristy. It’s charming.
I love Bar Antidote which has a full menu and its own craft beer. It’s a touch more upscale than other pubs but unfussy and full of locals.
There’s a cute farmer’s market with music in the town green once a week. If the “Mediterranean Mix” food stand is open, eat there. The chef is Bosnian, don’t miss the white sauce that’s not tzatziki, it comes from heaven. You could make a dinner of what he sells or check out the restaurants lining main street.
Explore the lower falls a few minutes’ walk to the south-west across the bridge. Easy to miss but shouldn’t be.
Hinesburg
A small town east of East Charlotte. Gas station, pub, groceries and beer. Nothing fancy but useful and unpretentious. Not very walkable.
There’s a good-sized restaurant, Hinesburg Pub, for standard fare. Kid friendly. Nice deck. Not memorable food but it’s good if you like exploring.
Trillium Farms is a great self-service farm stand in town. Drive up the gravel driveway across town hall even if it feels like you shouldn’t. Excellent produce and meat, you can Venmo or use a card. We bought eggs and other items that were all delicious. I always go here.
Lantmans is a large grocery shop with just about everything. We found it useful when exploring east of Charlotte and needed supplies on the way back to Charlotte, which has no local shopping after 4pm.
Hinesburg has not one but two craft brewery distribution garages. You can’t enjoy drinks there, but Foam and Frost have great local beer to bring home.
Bristol
Very lovely Norman Rockwell-like town an easy drive southeast from Charlotte. My all time favorite Vermont town.
Main restaurant is the BobCat for elevated pub food and drinks. I always go and it’s always great.
Outside town are the Bristol/Bartlett Falls. Fun spot for a dip in nature. Can be crowded and steep, perhaps better for larger kids or adults.
Bristol Cliffs: a local’s in-and-back trail (not a loop) with views. Kid safe.
We spent over an hour walking the tidy streets while admiring the houses and gardens. I always visit Bristol when in northern Vermont. Feels like home.
Someday when I’m rich I’ll buy a custom table from the Vermont Table Company, a workshop in the small industrial part northwest of town.
If I was a kid I’d stop at the conventional creemee stand at the end of town.
Essex, NY
Very nice way to spend an afternoon and to be on the water for cheap. Take the Charlotte ferry to Essex — you can walk on but it’s easier to drive on with your car — then have lunch at the Old Dock in the tiny town of Essex.
I like to drive north to explore woods with lake access — like Noble Woods
Last ferry is at 8pm, there’s a bridge further south if you miss it
Plattsburgh is worse for wear, I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit. I’d stick to small towns and sightseeing in Vermont.
Hiking in Starksboro/Jerusalem
There’s a great in-and-back trail up Mt Stark in the hamlet of Jerusalem, outside Starksboro. Great views. Jerusalem-Stark trail. No rock scrambling but it’s a challenge because it’s uphill. Hiking poles help on the way down.
It’s tiring but not as involved as Camel’s Hump (it’s closer to Charlotte and lower elevation) with great views. I’d do it again.
Stowe
The famous ski town has many lovely, very touristy businesses like chocolate shops and tchotchke-laden “country stores” to explore, or not, if touristy stuff turns you off. You can get high quality foods, it’s like Dean & Deluca’s (sigh, RIP) in the woods.
It’s a beautiful place to check out since it’s near so much good nature and the restaurants are good, but I wouldn’t want to stay here for longer than a few nights. (If I did have to stay in the area, I’d stay in Waitsfield.)
Friends and I hiked the Stowe Pinnacle Meadow trail to Hogback. Nice, vigorous hike with a bit of scrambling by the peak. The best lunch spot is at Pinnacle peak, Hogback is all trail with no views. I’d say it’s family friendly.
The trailhead parking lot is up a steep dirt road: follow the signs, drive slowly and you’ll be fine. We picked tons of wild raspberries at the start of the trail.
Bingham Falls is a spectacular swimming hole for an icy dip in the water near Smugglers Notch. It’s not for teensy kids since there’s a steep hike in, best for ages 9 and above. It’s a popular local’s spot that is absolutely gorgeous, no pun intended. Go here to see Vermont life in lush mountain ravines. Imagine staring up from a swimming hole into forested ledges and cliffs while soaking in crystal clear, cold water.
The Alchemist is a famous brewery for a drink and to-go, but no food. Heady Topper is the over hyped hard-to-find IPA. We didn’t go here since we needed food after hiking the Pinnacle.
Von Trapp Brewery just outside town in Moscow, VT is a must. Drink Austrian-style beers and eat very good Austrian food while catching lovely views from their picnic tables. One of my favorite things.
We wound up eating in The Backyard after being turned away from spots like Doc Ponds that were bursting at the seams since we didn’t have reservations. The Backyard has surprisingly good burgers and tater tot poutine.
Morrisville (near Stowe)
Lost Nation Brewery is highly recommended for craft beer and cider fans, reportedly has great food. Reservations recommended. The beer is fantastic in a state that makes many fantastic beers. It feels cool to be in a locals-only spot. We bought merch and loved the drinks for our craft beer tea time.
The town has a small main street and an old train depot. There’s relatively flat hiking and a river to explore. Really nice non-touristy ur Vermont experience. Rent a cottage here and write that novel.
Montpelier
Very lovely walkable historic town and the state’s capital. I recommend a stroll across the bridges and the little rail train in town. Check out the immaculate neo Classical state house. There’s an indie movie theater and fun shops, including a little side street with a good outdoor gear/bike shop.
We had a terrible meal at Positive Pies but others swear by it, your mileage may vary. I really liked Montpelier and look forward to going to a movie and exploring more. The local gourmet food shop had lots of amazing chocolate.
Waitsfield
This is a gem of a hamlet on the Mad River, south of Stowe and near famous ski areas like Sugarbush. It’s a little twee but tasteful and ultimately, a tiny speck on the map. Go check it out.
The drive is pretty nutty from Charlotte since you go up and over the Green Mountains. I don’t recommend it at night or in bad weather, but others don’t seem to mind. You can drive around it via the 89 to 100 via Waterbury.
The Mad River is clear, cool and easily accessible. There’s a covered bridge in town where teens jump off rocks. The river is great for all ages since there’s no hiking to the water. Bring bathing suits and towels. The shore line is rocky so water shoes or Teva-like sandals make it comfortable.
Peasant is a finer restaurant by the bridge that’s open later in the week.
American Flatbread Company is a wonderful spot with excellent pizza even if you’re a (totally understandably picky) New Yorker, with a great little farm to see chickens and tidy beds of flowers. Very kid friendly and also fun for adults. Reservations are required since it’s so popular. You’ll eat outdoors on picnic tables, bring layers.
Lawson’s is a famous brewery south of town. Not sure if they have food but the beer is awesome.
Further south of town is Riverside Park, a more peaceful setting to enjoy the river; I like parking here and exploring the banks.
Richmond
This is a really cool small town off the 89 (or via local roads east of Hinesburg) about thirty minutes from Charlotte. We enjoyed a small taste of it. I want to go back for dinner at the finer farm-to-table restaurant in town.
The Stone Corral is a folksy brewery with great beer and pub food, the beer was so good I bought a four pack to go, but I wish I did the same for every other brew pub I visited. We had over-sauced salads, but according to a friendly guy from Middlebury, the tacos are excellent.
In town there are two finer restaurants Hatchet and The Spruce which look amazing. We chatted with the manager for both who was watering flowers out front; we ran out of time to enjoy them.
There’s very accessible access to the Winooski River (AKA “onion” in the Abenaki language) in town, and all up and down the Huntington Gorge.
There seems to be a small Black community here; the vibe is very welcoming. Lots of BLM signs that feel like they’re more than virtue signaling. This is a special tiny town and pretty.
For a bonus, drive down the Huntington River for swimming holes bustling with locals. The one-shop town of Huntington is great for supplies.
Grand Isle/Isle La Motte
North of Burlington is the largest island in Lake Champlain. It’s almost entirely farms with small specks of one shop towns. I find myself driving there to enjoy the bucolic quiet and lake views, and to take little walks in nature.
Get off the main road — Route 2 — for better views. The island is flat so it’s not as swoopingly gorgeous as the mountain ranges, but what Grand Isle lacks in drama it makes up for with tranquility. I put this last on the list since it’s not an immediate draw, but I always find myself up in South and North Hero.
Alburgh Dune Park — Vermont’s biggest sand beach, with grassy dunes and a sandy shoreline. The area has an ocean beachy vibe, maybe because Lake Champlain was once saltwater. Apparently on a hot day it’s mobbed, we went on an overcast day and skipped stones and checked out the trees. Parking is for a fee.
Ruthcliffe — We saw the little island Isle La Motte (eye-LAH mot, apparently) on Google Maps. The very first farm stand has a great shop, Emily bought smoked cheese and gifts, and we wanted to buy all the 60-day dry aged beef but at $20 a pound we opted just to dream about it.
Then we drove around the small island until we discovered Ruthcliffe, an charming inn and restaurant on the lake that’s been family run since 1957. We only had time for a drink on the patio, but we’ll be back for dinner.
I could go on but this is a good start for exploring northwestern Vermont while pretending you’re a local. Drive a Subaru or pickup truck with a “Vermont As F***” sticker to truly blend in, or just say Shallot for Charlotte.
Write a comment if you go and let me know your discoveries.